Hand Hammered Art Deco Ring

by abeadstore on July 20, 2013

copper_ring Materials:

Tools:

  • Ergonomic Plier Set
  • Stainless Steel Bench Block
  • Dampening Block (optional, place it under the steel bench block to dampen sound/minimize damage to surfaces. Mine is a square of pine about 3/4″ thick)
  • Ball pin Hammer or Jewelry Hammer
  • Regular Household Hammer
  • Ring Mandrel or round chapstick case
  • Metal File

Instructions:

    1. Cut 16ga copper to desired length. To measure this length, you may want to use a fabric ruler or a piece of string. Wrap it around your finger and cut the copper a couple of millimeters longer than you need.
    2. Take a good look at all the pictures on the right side of the screen so you have some idea of what each step will look like.
    3. Shape the piece of 16ga wire you cut however you would like. The one I made is bent up on one side and down on the other.
    4. Flatten and shape the piece of 16ga Copper using your bench block and hammer (pictured above).
    5. The 16ga copper you just flattened should now resemble the piece pictured in image #1 (if you are making a similar ring).
    6. Shape the piece of copper around your ring mandrel or chapstick tube (I used a chapstick tube for this one. My ring ended up somewhere around a 5-6. I have since invested in a ring mandrel).
    7. It should now resemble image #2.
    8. When your ring is in it’s general desired shape, you may start attaching your bead.
    9. Take ~4″ of 26ga wire (you want plenty of extra length), and wrap it around the 16ga flattened wire several times. I generally wrap it about three times, but you may do however many you would like.
    10. Your ring should now resemble image #3
    11. Now wrap the short side around the long tail of wire you should have three times. Trim the excess from the short side off, and press it down flush.
    12. Your ring should now resemble image #4.
    13. Place your stone on the long bit of wire, then repeat steps 10-13
    14. File down the ends until they are smooth to touch. I like to round them a bit so they don’t snag on things or poke me.
    15. Your ring will be somewhat adjustable given a little bit of slide in the gemstone and wire. This ring (using the chapstick tube as as sizer), ened up ~5-6.

You’re finished! Place the ring on your finger and admire your handiwork!

Tips:

  1. When learning a new metal working technique, I always use copper wire because it’s much cheaper than sterling and softer to work with.
  2. If you would like a more textured appearance, hammer with the household hammer on a smooth sidewalk first (both sides), then hammer again with the jewelry hammer on the bench block, this gets the tiny grains of sand you may pound into the wire from the sidewalk out. You could probably use sandpaper (sandy side up) for a similar effect.
  3. This ring would look great with any number of flat pearls (coin-shaped in particular), flat gemstones, or even flat glass beads.
  4. Once you’ve perfected your ring-making techniques, this is a fun design to recreate with sterling silver wire as well!
  5. If you’re unsure how to wire-wrap, “The Basics of Bead Stringing” is a great place to start!
  6. Please note that all designs used for tutorials are intended to inspire. We may run out of any/all products used in a given project. Most of our designs contain products that are easily substituted. We do not intend for anyone to copy these designs exactly.
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